Monday, April 24, 2017

How to Lengthen (or Shorten) Men's Suit Sleeves

There are many types of tailored sleeves in men's suit coats.  The easiest kind to lengthen or shorten are those that have no buttonholes.  If the buttonholes are functioning (meaning that they have been cut open), then you cannot lengthen or shorten the sleeves from the bottom hem.  These types of sleeves have to be shortened by taking the sleeves off the jacket and cutting down the sleeve cap.

This tutorial will focus on how to lengthen the sleeve with buttons and sewn buttonholes.  (Shortening the sleeves will use the same method, except fabric will not need to be added to the sleeve lining.)

Change a Pullover to an Open Cardigan

The first instructions will be for the open cardigan.  The second instructions will be for a zipper closure in a sweater.

I bought this long sleeved pullover knit top at a thrift store.   I wanted to make it into an open cardigan.  I have done this numerous times.  An open sweater is much more versatile than a pullover for me.

Wednesday, September 14, 2016

Men's/Women's Plaid Shirt

This image is a Kwik Sew 2777 men's collared shirt.  The instructions below are for a basic long sleeve with a tailored placket, collar and stand, and front button band.  The instructions are for a women's right side button band, but the instructions could be reversed for a men's left side button band.

NOTE:  For this Kwik Sew pattern, all seam allowances are either 1/4" or 3/8".  Pay attention to all instructions.

We are working on plaid fabric for this project  Here are some articles that are helpful when selecting plaid fabric and a pattern style.

Plaid Shirt Article #1

Plaid Shirt Article #2

Plaid Shirt Article #3

Plaid Shirt Article #4

Prepare your fabric by preshrinking it and then pressing it to get the wrinkles out.  Also press the pattern pieces so they are nice and smooth.

Here are some basic tips for your classic plaid shirt:
  • professional cutting influences a professional garment
  • have good shears, cut with nice, long strokes--do not use rotary cutter
  •  be alert and awake 
  • save all your scraps
  • cut out a single layer at a time
  • choose a dominant line and use that same line for your center back, center yoke, and front band
  •  mark all right side pieces of cut fabric with a piece of tape
  • do not use flannel--it creeps
  • match everything horizontally
Lay out your fabric single layer right side up.  Double check that the horizontal and vertical plaid lines are perpendicular to each other.  It is helpful to lay out the fabric on a cloth table.  This grips the fabric so that it will not slip around. With a long ruler, check the horizontal plaid lines to make sure they are straight and perpendicular to the vertical lines.  You want the fabric to be absolutely straight.

Tuesday, September 13, 2016

Skirt (A-Line) with Waistband

This A-line skirt has front and back darts, center back lapped zipper, and waistband.

Monday, March 7, 2016

Shortening Tailored Jacket

This tailored jacket was given to me.  Even though I loved it, it was way too long and I wanted to cut it off.  I tried it on and marked where I would like the new hem to be.