Thursday, September 21, 2023

Changing a Double-Breasted Jacket to a Single-Breasted Jacket

 This is a beautiful Talbots jacket that I acquired while thrifting.  It is a jacquard weave damask fabric with a fun red/white print lining.  I am not a fan of double-breasted jackets, mainly because I love to keep my jackets open.  Because of this, I decided to convert the front closure to a single-breasted closure.  Here is how I did it and you can too!

Instagram--@julannblakedesigns




Friday, April 22, 2022

Tailored Pants--For Four-Piece, Two-Piece, and One-Piece Waistband Options

It is time to update the Tailored pant instructions.  This post will include instructions for a four-piece waistband, a two-piece waistband, and a one-piece rectangle waistband.  

The pattern I have chosen is Simplicity 1696 for women, but these same instructions apply to men's trousers.  The pattern is for a right lap fly zipper, but can be adapted for a left fly zipper.



Friday, October 1, 2021

Plaid Shirt--Tailored Shirt for Women/Men

 PLAID SHIRT FOR WOMEN/MEN


Even though I already have a tailored shirt blog post, I decided it was time to update it.  I have learned more quick and efficient tips and will include them in this new post.

This pattern is a Kwik Sew K3555 collared shirt.  The instructions below are for a basic long sleeve with a tailored placket and cuff, lined yoke, collar and stand, and front button band.  The instructions are for a women's right side button band, but the instructions could be reversed for a men's left side button band.


NOTE:  For this Kwik Sew pattern, all seam allowances are either 1/4" or 3/8".  Pay attention to all instructions.

We are working on plaid fabric for this project  Here are some articles that are helpful when selecting plaid fabric and a pattern style.

Plaid Shirt Article #1


Plaid Shirt Article #2

Plaid Shirt Article #3

Plaid Shirt Article #4

Prepare your fabric by preshrinking it and then pressing it to get the wrinkles out.  Also press the pattern pieces so they are nice and smooth.

Here are some basic tips when cutting and sewing your classic plaid shirt:

  • professional cutting influences a professional garment
  • have good shears, cut with nice, long strokes--do not use rotary cutter
  •  be alert and awake 
  • save all your scraps
  • cut out a single layer at a time
  • choose a dominant line and use that same line for your center back, center yoke, and front band
  •  mark all right side pieces of cut fabric with a piece of tape
  • do not use flannel--it creeps
  • match everything horizontally and vertically when possible

Wednesday, March 10, 2021

Jacket Back Vent with Lining (A Sample)

 

Here are the sample pieces for the jacket back vent with lining.  Cut out 2 of the back jacket vent.  Cut 1 each of the back jacket vent lining pieces, one for left and one for right.  Notice that one extends out at the vent and one cuts away at the vent.  This will accommodate the overlap and the underlap of the vent design.


Thursday, March 4, 2021

Tailored Jacket--Bagging the Lining--How to Sew a Front Tuck in the Lining

 This post is demonstrating the front tuck lining with three sample pieces:  The jacket, the lining, and the jacket facing.  


Tuesday, January 26, 2021

Lined Patch Pocket for Tailored Jacket

 Lined Patch Pocket for Tailored Jacket

This lined pocket has all raw edges enclosed and gives a very clean, tailored look to the pocket.

Cut pocket out of fashion fabric.  Snip at the sides of the hem fold for marking purposes.



Double Welt Pocket With/Without Pocket Flap

 DOUBLE WELT POCKET WITH/WITHOUT POCKET FLAP