Tailored Sleeve Vents with Asymmetrical Mitered Corner--Sample

Note:  These instructions are for the tailored sleeve vent with the asymmetrical mitered corner.  They are half-scale samples, but the instructions apply for full-scale sleeves as well.

Press up 1" on bottom hems of upper sleeve and under sleeve.

On the upper sleeve, press under the sleeve vent 1 1/2" on the fold line.

Mark with pins where the raw edges meet.  Also add a pin where the bottom pressed corner is.

On upper sleeve, make sure to mark the "dot" at the corner of the top of vent.

To make the mitered sewing line, fold the vent right sides together, matching where the pins match and the bottom corner pin is.  Use a ruler to meet the bottom pin to the top pins.  Draw the diagonal stitching line.  

Pin right sides together where pin markings are.  The diagonal line will become the mitered stitching line.  

Stitch the mitered line, backstitching at beginning and end of line.

Using the point turning tool, turn the vent right side out and push the corner.  (Note:  the seam allowance can be trimmed to eliminate bulk.  But if this is done, the sleeve vent can never be lengthened.  I usually do not trim the seam allowances.)

Press the mitered vent and use the clapper pressing tool to get a crisp, professional edge.

Place upper sleeve on top of under sleeve, right sides together.  Match up vent seam and pin together.  Place last pin on the "dot" marking.

Stitch from top of sleeve to the "dot," then pivot at the "dot" and stitch across the top of the vent.

Clip to the "dot" at the upper corner of the vent.

Press the sleeve seam open.

Pin the other sleeve seam together and pin.  Stitch together.

Press sleeve seam open.

To make the under vent, check the hem fold to make sure it matches the hem fold on the mitered vent side.

Turn vent up, right sides together on the hem fold.

Stitch 1/4" seam on edge of vent.

Turn vent right side out, using the point turning tool to push out the corner.

Press bottom hem again.

Press edge of sewn vent.

Here is the finished mitered corner vent.  Eventually sleeve buttons would be sewn through all vent layers.

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(Tag words:  tailored sleeve vent, mitered corner on two-piece sleeve, sleeve vent, how to sew a mitered corner, asymmetrical mitered corner, how to sew an asymmetrical mitered corner, asymmetrical mitered sleeve vent)

Charles James Hip Expander

 Charles James Hip Expander

I learned about Charles James' Hip Expanders from the book "The Couture Secrets of Shape," by Homer Layne, Rick Owens and Dorothea Mink.  Homer Layne had been the assistant of designer Charles James when Charles lived at the Chelsea Hotel in New York City.

Charles James would use this hip expander to assist in duplicating the shape of the client's hip measurements to his dress form.  He also used it to form different shapes, such as a bustle.  Sometimes he would add pattern paper to make the skirt design longer.

Christian Dior Silk Dress Recreate

 

**Still in DRAFT form**

Christian Dior Silk Dress Recreate

Charles James Draping Platitudes

 How to Make Charles James' 

Draping Platitudes

"All of my seams have meaning."  --Charles James--

I first learned about platitudes from the book "The Couture Secrets of Shape" by Homer Layne, Rick Owens and Dorothea Mink.  Homer Layne had been the assistant of designer Charles James when Charles lived at the Chelsea Hotel in New York City.

Platitudes are flat pattern pieces that have shape to them, to help find design lines of the dress form that can become seam lines in a garment.  It can work like a ruler, and help inspire interesting shape to a garment.  Platitudes can be used to create an Empire seam, princess seam, a hip- or shoulder yoke, or a neckline on a garment.  Two platitudes can be mirrored and wrapped completely around the dress form.

How to Make the Cristobal Balenciaga Red Evening Gown

 How to Make the Cristobal Balenciaga Red Evening Gown

The original Balenciaga red evening gown was made in 1952 out of silk taffeta.  It would have had an elegant rustling sound when the wearer moved in the gown.  I chose to make a half-scale replica dress out of red charmeuse satin for a lovely drape.

Changing a Double-Breasted Jacket to a Single-Breasted Jacket

 This is a beautiful Talbots jacket that I acquired while thrifting.  It is a jacquard weave damask fabric with a fun red/white print lining.  I am not a fan of double-breasted jackets, mainly because I love to keep my jackets open.  Because of this, I decided to convert the front closure to a single-breasted closure.  Here is how I did it and you can too!

Instagram--@julannblakedesigns

Tailored Pants--For Four-Piece, Two-Piece, and One-Piece Waistband Options

It is time to update the Tailored pant instructions.  This post will include instructions for a four-piece waistband, a two-piece waistband, and a one-piece rectangle waistband.  

The pattern I have chosen is Simplicity 1696 for women, but these same instructions apply to men's trousers.  The pattern is for a right lap fly zipper, but can be adapted for a left fly zipper.