Charles James Draping Platitudes

 How to Make Charles James' Draping Platitudes

I first learned about platitudes from the book "The Couture Secrets of Shape" by Homer Layne, Rick Owens and Dorothea Mink.  Homer Layne had been the assistant of designer Charles James when Charles lived at the Chelsea Hotel in New York City.

Platitudes are flat pattern pieces that have shape to them, to help find design lines of the dress form that can become seam lines in a garment.  It can work like a ruler, and help inspire interesting shape to a garment.  Platitudes can be used to create an Empire seam, princess seam, a hip- or shoulder yoke, or a neckline on a garment.  Two platitudes can be mirrored and wrapped completely around the dress form.

I began by using four layers of fusible woven cotton interfacing.  I fused them all together, with the fusing all facing towards the inside of the interfacing.  This will make a thick, but pliable piece of fabric to work with.

I made some paper patterns of various platitudes.  The first pattern came from the book "The Couture Secrets of Shape."  Trace the shapes on the top layer of the fused interfacing.

I am making more of my own platitude designs.  Many different shapes can work.

Placing them on the fused interfacing.

Tracing the platitude patterns to the fused interfacing.

After cutting out the platitudes, edgestitch around the raw edges to prevent them from fraying.

Front view of Charles James' drop waist shape, or belt

Back view of Charles James' waist, or belt

 

Using two mirrored platitudes

Using a platitude to form a shaped bodice

Using a platitude to form a shaped bodice seam

Mirrored platitudes to form a shaped skirt seam

 

Mirrored platitudes for bodice seam shaping

 Happy Designing 😊

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