Charles James Hip Expander

 Charles James Hip Expander

I learned about Charles James' Hip Expanders from the book "The Couture Secrets of Shape," by Homer Layne, Rick Owens and Dorothea Mink.  Homer Layne had been the assistant of designer Charles James when Charles lived at the Chelsea Hotel in New York City.

Charles James would use this hip expander to assist in duplicating the shape of the client's hip measurements to his dress form.  He also used it to form different shapes, such as a bustle.  Sometimes he would add pattern paper to make the skirt design longer.

I traced out five pattern pieces from the back of the book.

Then I traced them onto sloper paper, including the markings.  I cut out two sets so that I could make a complete circle around the waist.  The second set is a mirror image of the first set.

 Using an eyelet tool, I first punched a small hole in the corner of each waist angle.  The tool will punch the eyelet through the front side of the sloper paper.  You need to squeeze with pressure to get the back of the eyelet to crimp and leave a nice finish.

 

Front Side

Back Side

 Finished piece with eyelets at each waist corner.

Connect the five pieces together using metal brads.

Using the hip expander at the natural waistline.  Charles James liked to lower the waist at center front for a more flattering look.

Center front to center back.

Pinning down the hip expander for a more slimming silhouette.

Side view.

Adjusting the hip expander with a flat front and bustle back.

* * * * *

* * *

*

How to make a Charles James Hip Expander, Skirt Expander, Hip Expander Bustle