Lined Patch Pocket for Tailored Jacket

 Lined Patch Pocket for Tailored Jacket

This lined pocket has all raw edges enclosed and gives a very clean, tailored look to the pocket.

Cut pocket out of fashion fabric.  Snip at the sides of the hem fold for marking purposes.

Cut out the lining using the same pattern, but fold on the "cut lining to here" reference.  This pocket lining will be shorter than the fashion fabric pocket.

With fashion fabric pocket wrong side up, fold top of pocket down to the snip markings.  Press hem fold.

If your fabric needs some structure, interface the hem allowance.

If your fabric needs more structure, interface the entire pocket.

Press down the hem allowance.

Fold the pocket lining in half lengthwise and pin together.  Trim off 1/8" on the sides and bottom.  This will allow the fashion fabric to "wrap" to the lining side when finished.

With right sides together, pin top of fashion fabric pocket to top of pocket lining fabric.

Sew 5/8" across top of pocket, leaving a 2" opening in the middle of the seam.

Trim and grade the seam allowance.

Press the seam allowance towards the lining.

With right sides together, fold the hem down on the snip markings and pin the raw edges together.  The fashion fabric will buckle a bit because it is larger. 

Before stitching the seam, fold the pattern in half and cut along the stitching line.  This will be used as a template for stitching so that both curved corners will be symmetrical.  

Place the template on top of the lining side of the pocket, 5/8" in from the raw edges.

Stitch 5/8" around the sides and bottom of pocket, following the edge of the paper template.  As you get close to the curve, shorten stitch length to 1mm.  This will make the curves smoother and will strengthen the seam from trimming closely.

Double check that the two curves are shaped the same.

Press the lining seam allowance towards the pocket.

Trim the seam allowances and pink the curves to eliminate more bulk.

Turn the pocket right side out through the opening.  Use the point turning tool to push out the corners.

Press the sides and bottom of the pocket.  The fashion fabric will slightly roll to the lining side.  Check to make sure that the pocket width is the same from the top to the bottom.  If the top is slightly wider, adjust the seam allowances.  Then slipstitch the opening closed.  

Pocket is now ready to attach to the jacket.  It may be hand stitched or topstitched--or both.

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