Charles James Hip Expander

 Charles James Hip Expander

I learned about Charles James' Hip Expanders from the book "The Couture Secrets of Shape," by Homer Layne, Rick Owens and Dorothea Mink.  Homer Layne had been the assistant of designer Charles James when Charles lived at the Chelsea Hotel in New York City.

Charles James would use this hip expander to assist in duplicating the shape of the client's hip measurements to his dress form.  He also used it to form different shapes, such as a bustle.  Sometimes he would add pattern paper to make the skirt design longer.

Christian Dior Silk Dress Recreate

 

**Still in DRAFT form**

Christian Dior Silk Dress Recreate

Charles James Draping Platitudes

 How to Make Charles James' Draping Platitudes

I first learned about platitudes from the book "The Couture Secrets of Shape" by Homer Layne, Rick Owens and Dorothea Mink.  Homer Layne had been the assistant of designer Charles James when Charles lived at the Chelsea Hotel in New York City.

Platitudes are flat pattern pieces that have shape to them, to help find design lines of the dress form that can become seam lines in a garment.  It can work like a ruler, and help inspire interesting shape to a garment.  Platitudes can be used to create an Empire seam, princess seam, a hip- or shoulder yoke, or a neckline on a garment.  Two platitudes can be mirrored and wrapped completely around the dress form.

How to Make the Cristobal Balenciaga Red Evening Gown

 How to Make the Cristobal Balenciaga Red Evening Gown

The original Balenciaga red evening gown was made in 1952 out of silk taffeta.  It would have had an elegant rustling sound when the wearer moved in the gown.  I chose to make a half-scale replica dress out of red charmeuse satin for a lovely drape.

Changing a Double-Breasted Jacket to a Single-Breasted Jacket

 This is a beautiful Talbots jacket that I acquired while thrifting.  It is a jacquard weave damask fabric with a fun red/white print lining.  I am not a fan of double-breasted jackets, mainly because I love to keep my jackets open.  Because of this, I decided to convert the front closure to a single-breasted closure.  Here is how I did it and you can too!

Instagram--@julannblakedesigns

Tailored Pants--For Four-Piece, Two-Piece, and One-Piece Waistband Options

It is time to update the Tailored pant instructions.  This post will include instructions for a four-piece waistband, a two-piece waistband, and a one-piece rectangle waistband.  

The pattern I have chosen is Simplicity 1696 for women, but these same instructions apply to men's trousers.  The pattern is for a right lap fly zipper, but can be adapted for a left fly zipper.

Plaid Shirt--Tailored Shirt for Women/Men

 PLAID SHIRT FOR WOMEN/MEN

Even though I already have a tailored shirt blog post, I decided it was time to update it.  I have learned more quick and efficient tips and will include them in this new post.

This pattern is a Kwik Sew K3555 collared shirt.  The instructions below are for a basic long sleeve with a tailored placket and cuff, lined yoke, collar and stand, and front button band.  The instructions are for a women's right side button band, but the instructions could be reversed for a men's left side button band.

NOTE:  For this Kwik Sew pattern, all seam allowances are either 1/4" or 3/8".  Pay attention to all instructions.

We are working on plaid fabric for this project  Here are some articles that are helpful when selecting plaid fabric and a pattern style.

Plaid Shirt Article #1

Plaid Shirt Article #2

Plaid Shirt Article #3

Plaid Shirt Article #4

Prepare your fabric by preshrinking it and then pressing it to get the wrinkles out.  Also press the pattern pieces so they are nice and smooth.

Here are some basic tips when cutting and sewing your classic plaid shirt:

• professional cutting influences a professional garment
• have good shears, cut with nice, long strokes--do not use rotary cutter
•  be alert and awake 
• save all your scraps
• cut out a single layer at a time
• choose a dominant line and use that same line for your center back, center yoke, and front band
•  mark all right side pieces of cut fabric with a piece of tape
• do not use flannel--it creeps
• match everything horizontally and vertically when possible