NOTE: This blog post is still incomplete, but has the basic steps to help you finish your coat.
Coat pattern pieces: 2 fronts, 1 back on fold, 2 sleeves, 2 hood pieces or 2 collar pieces. Pocket pieces are optional. Cut the same pieces for the coat lining.
SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR THE SKI JACKET ARE 3/8".
POCKETS
-Do pockets first while the front coat pieces are not sewn to anything.
Patch Pockets (unlined):
Press diagonal line into a 1/4" double fold hem.
Press under raw edges to wrong side 1/2". Leave straight front and bottom edges unpressed. (These pockets can also be lined by sewing right sides together, leaving an opening for turning.)
Topstitch pocket hem close to lip of fold.
Pin patch pocket to bottom center of coat front.
Mock Single Welt Pocket:
Shorten welt opening for child's coat. Usually 3" - 4".
Transfer accurate markings to pocket linings. This rectangle is 1/2" wide and 4" long.
Decide where to place welt pocket on coat fronts. It can be vertical or angled.
Pin through the markings to the coat front.
Transfer markings to wrong side of coat fronts.
Add 1 1/2" interfacing pieces to wrong side of pocket placement for support.
Add interfacing to wrong side of welt pieces for support.
Fold welt pieces wrong sides together and press.
Zigzag raw edges together.
Place right side of pocket lining to right side of coat. Notice arrow on pocket lining is towards side of coat. Pin layers together.
Now place other pocket lining wrong sides together with pinned pocket lining.
Then place other front coat piece on top of pocket lining. This will ensure that both pocket linings are perfectly placed on coat front pieces.
Place other pocket lining on other coat front piece. These should be a mirror image of each other.
Shorten stitch length to 1.5 and stitch around rectangle box markings.
This is what it looks like on coat side.
Cut through center of rectangle, stopping 1/4" before each end and cutting diagonally to corners. Be sure to not cut through stitching.
Turn pocket lining right side out. Press seam allowance flat.
Add welt piece and pin.
Turn to right side and measure width of welt to make sure it is an even 1/2" throughout the opening. The top fold of the welt should be towards the top of the coat.
Topstitch all around the pocket 1/8", being careful not to stitch through welt on upper edge of pocket opening.
On back side of pocket lining, fold lining in half, right sides together. This pocket lining is adult size, so trim it down to fit inside coat edges. I have marked the stitching line with a pencil.
Stitch and trim down or serge.
More Examples of Mock Welt Pocket
True Welt Pocket
Pocket with Zipper
LINING
Seam allowances are 3/8". Sew shoulder seams right sides together. You may serge or zigzag the raw edges.
Sew the hood right sides together.
Cut out a rectangle 1" x 3". Fold in the long outside edges 1/4" and press.
Turn folds towards each other and press again. Stitch along outside edge.
Fold hang tag in half and line raw edges up to center back of lining neckline. Baste 1/4" from neck raw edge.
OUTER SHELL
Sew shoulder seams right sides together. You may serge or zigzag the raw edges.
Sew the hood right sides together.
Add an ease stitch in the sleeve cap by lengthening stitch length to 4 -5. Do not backstitch and leave thread tails. Stitch 3/8" and 1/8" away from raw edge.
Pull on bobbin threads on both ends of stitching to shape sleeve cap.
Pin sleeves to jacket armhole, matching top of sleeve to shoulder seam. Pull up on ease stitch until fabric lengths match. Use lots of pins.
Sew sleeves to armholes.
Pin side seams and sleeve seams, pinning armhole seam towards sleeve.
Stitch from coat bottom into sleeve.
**NOTE: When sewing sleeves in the lining, leave a 5" - 7" opening in one of the sleeve seams, in the middle. This is necessary to turn coat right side out.
Find center back of coat neckline and mark with pin. Pin coat to hood, matching center back pin with hood seam.
Pin all along neckline, clipping neck curve as necessary.
Sew 3/8" seam.
Attaching Zipper:
With zipper closed, pin right side of zipper tape to right side of coat front, 3/4" up from bottom edge of coat front.
Stitch from hood seam to bottom of zipper, using zipper presser foot. Sew in center of zipper.
Pin other zipper tape to right side of other coat front. Make sure hood seams and bottom edges are lined up and match.
Sew center of zipper from hood seam to bottom.
Check to make sure that coat fronts match up even.
Since zippers are too long, fold back zipper tape at 45 degree angle at hood seam and stitch in between zipper teeth, using hand on handwheel to guide needle and stitches.
Now pin coat outer shell to coat lining. Pin hood, fronts and bottoms together.
Stitch all around coat, 3/8" seam allowance.
To attach at sleeves, turn sleeve lining up 3" wrong sides together.
Insert sleeve lining into outer sleeve, right sides together, and pin around circle.
Stitch around sleeve hem.
This is what it will look like when stitched.
Now you are ready to turn the coat right side out. Find the opening in the sleeve lining. Carefully start turning coat right side out.
Take your time so you do not stress the sleeve opening.
Once the coat is turned right side out, smooth out the seams and press them, making sure that there are no fabric tucks.
Use a seam roll pressing tool to press the sleeve hem seam.
Press the hood seam over a pressing ham.
Use a clapper pressing tool to get a crisp edge.
Also press the bottom hem.
Pull out your zipper corners with a strong pin or needle.
Now you are ready to topstitch. Lengthen your stitch length to 3 because of the thickness of the fabric. Stitch around the sleeve hem seam. I stitched 1/4" away from the edge, with my presser foot along the fabric edge.
Here is the sleeve topstitched and cuff rolled up.
Then stitch around the bottom hem, zipper, and hood, pivoting at the zipper corners.
Move the slider as you stitch close to it. Pivot at the bottom corner.
Now anchor the two coats together in several spots: crown of hood, neck seam, and under the sleeves. Feel along the seams to match them up and then pin through all layers. This picture shows the pin in the crown of the hood and the center of the neck seam.
Here is the pin through the seam under the sleeves.
Go through the sleeve lining opening and find where you pinned the layers together. Match up the seam allowances, and stitch through them, 1/8" from the edge.
Pin the sleeve lining opening closed.
Stitch the opening closed with the edge stitch.
Here is the finished coat.
EXTRA PHOTOS
