Charles James Hip Expander

 Charles James Hip Expander

I learned about Charles James' Hip Expanders from the book "The Couture Secrets of Shape," by Homer Layne, Rick Owens and Dorothea Mink.  Homer Layne had been the assistant of designer Charles James when Charles lived at the Chelsea Hotel in New York City.

Charles James would use this hip expander to assist in duplicating the shape of the client's hip measurements to his dress form.  He also used it to form different shapes, such as a bustle.  Sometimes he would add pattern paper to make the skirt design longer.

Christian Dior Silk Dress Recreate

 

**Still in DRAFT form**

Christian Dior Silk Dress Recreate

Charles James Draping Platitudes

 How to Make Charles James' Draping Platitudes

I first learned about platitudes from the book "The Couture Secrets of Shape" by Homer Layne, Rick Owens and Dorothea Mink.  Homer Layne had been the assistant of designer Charles James when Charles lived at the Chelsea Hotel in New York City.

Platitudes are flat pattern pieces that have shape to them, to help find design lines of the dress form that can become seam lines in a garment.  It can work like a ruler, and help inspire interesting shape to a garment.  Platitudes can be used to create an Empire seam, princess seam, a hip- or shoulder yoke, or a neckline on a garment.  Two platitudes can be mirrored and wrapped completely around the dress form.

How to Make the Cristobal Balenciaga Red Evening Gown

 How to Make the Cristobal Balenciaga Red Evening Gown

The original Balenciaga red evening gown was made in 1952 out of silk taffeta.  It would have had an elegant rustling sound when the wearer moved in the gown.  I chose to make a half-scale replica dress out of red charmeuse satin for a lovely drape.