Thursday, June 4, 2020

Skirt with Yoke

The hip yoke skirt maintains a waistline fit and supports the skirt design.  It is fitted with no darts because the darts have been converted to the bottom yoke seam.  Different skirt designs can be added to the yoke, from straight to flared, gathered to circle.

Here is the style tape for the bottom shape of the front yoke.





Here is the style tape for the back yoke.


Have muslin blocks prepared for both front and back yokes.  Here is the start of the front yoke drape.  Pin to CF at waist and bottom of yoke.  Smooth over to side seam and pin.


Start trimming and clipping at the waist and smooth muslin over to the side waist.


Mark with pencil.


Begin back yoke drape at CB.  Pin at waist, bottom of yoke and side seam.


Smooth muslin up to waist, trim and clip at waist.  Pin waist over to the side waist.


Mark back seams.


True up yoke pieces, making sure the side seam lengths match each other.  Add 1/2" seam allowances at waist and bottom of yoke and 1" for side seams.


Pin front yoke to back yoke.


Check fit on dress form.  Front yoke looks good.



Side seams match.



Back yoke looks good.



Circle Skirt Instructions

Prepare two square blocks.  Draw cross grain line 10" down from top.
























































Gathered Skirt Instructions

Prepare two muslin blocks for the gathered skirt.  I chose to do 2 to 1 fullness ratio for the skirt width.  Draw the crossgrain line 10" down from the top.