This image is a Kwik Sew 2777 men's collared shirt. The instructions below are for a basic long sleeve with a tailored placket, collar and stand, and front button band. The instructions are for a women's right side button band, but the instructions could be reversed for a men's left side button band.
NOTE: For this Kwik Sew pattern, all seam allowances are either 1/4" or 3/8". Pay attention to all instructions.
We are working on plaid fabric for this project Here are some articles that are helpful when selecting plaid fabric and a pattern style.
Plaid Shirt Article #1
Plaid Shirt Article #2
Plaid Shirt Article #3
Plaid Shirt Article #4
Prepare your fabric by preshrinking it and then pressing it to get the wrinkles out. Also press the pattern pieces so they are nice and smooth.
Here are some basic tips for your classic plaid shirt:
- professional cutting influences a professional garment
- have good shears, cut with nice, long strokes--do not use rotary cutter
- be alert and awake
- save all your scraps
- cut out a single layer at a time
- choose a dominant line and use that same line for your center back, center yoke, and front band
- mark all right side pieces of cut fabric with a piece of tape
- do not use flannel--it creeps
- match everything horizontally
Check your horizontal lines throughout the entire fabric piece. Also check for possible fabric flaws.
Choose the dominant line that you would like to have for center back, center yoke, and button band.
With fabric right side up, mark center of dominant line and place back pattern right side up, with fold line on the center of the dominant line. At least in three places, check the horizontal lines on both edges of the pattern to make sure these lines are perpendicular to the vertical lines.
Cut out the back piece, but do not cut on the center back fold line.
Now fold the cut back piece on the fold, matching the horizontal and vertical plaid lines. When all lines match up, you may cut the other half of the shirt back.
Place yoke pattern right side up on lengthwise grain, with center back matching the center of the dominant plaid line.
Pin yoke in place. Make sure the horizontal lines go straight across.
Cut out the first side of the yoke. Then fold yoke in half at center back, right on dominant plaid line. Match up horizontal and vertical plaid lines and pin in place.
Cut out rest of yoke. You will cut out the other yoke later.
Place front pattern piece right side up. Start by lining up the front vertical line.
To match both vertical and horizontal plaid lines, place the cut back piece on top of the front pattern, with side seams lining up. Then place the yoke above, matching the shoulder seam with the front pattern.
Then move front shirt pattern so that the horizontal lines will match at the side seams. Also check to make sure that the vertical seams match at the shoulder of the yoke.
With a ruler, check at least three places horizontally to make sure that the fabric is straight. Pin in place and cut shirt front.
Now flip shirt front pattern right side down and match up horizontal and vertical lines to cut out the second shirt front.
Cut out second front shirt. This will give you a right front and a left front.
Now it is time to cut out the front button band. You want to make sure that the center of the button band is the dominant vertical plaid line, and that the horizontal lines match with the shirt front. The button band will be 2 1/4" wide. Begin by marking the dominant vertical plaid line. Then measure 1 1/8" out from that center mark on both sides and mark. This will be the width of your button band.
Once again, check to make sure that the horizontal lines of the button band will match the horizontal lines of the shirt front. As you cut out the button band, make it an inch longer at the top and bottom.
Here is a picture of the centered button band, matching up to the shirt front.
Before taking pattern pieces off, be sure to transfer pattern markings. For the shirt front center front and fold lines, snip into the edge of the fabric. Notches can also be transferred with snips.
Cut a piece of fusible interfacing 2" wide and the length of the button band. (It is called the button band, but it really is the buttonhole side.) Prepare your button band by pressing it and making sure that the vertical and horizontal lines are truly perpendicular to each other.
You can check this by using a clear ruler. If you fuse the interfacing on with the fabric crooked, you will not be able to fix it.
Turn the button band wrong side up and center the interfacing on the band. With a warm iron, press on the interfacing. Begin in the middle and move the iron to the band top and then to the bottom.
On men's shirts, the buttonholes (and button band) are on the left side. On women's shirts, the buttonholes (and button band) are on the right side. On the buttonholes side, cut off 2 3/8". (On your pattern, check to make sure that you are leaving 1/4" left on beyond the fold line marking.)
Cut this piece off and save. You will not use this as your button band. Since I am making a women's shirt, I have cut fabric off on the right shirt front. Do the opposite for the men's shirt.
Place right shirt front wrong side up.
Place button band right side down on wrong side of shirt front (the shirt front with the 2 3/8" cut off).
As you pin, to make sure that your horizontal lines are matching up, fold back the fabric 1/4" and check that your lines are matching up.
Secure band to shirt with lots of pins.
With a single thread and a hand needle, baste the band to the shirt front. Be careful to not let your fabric layers shift.
With button band side up, stitch band to shirt front, stitching 3/8" seam allowance. Be careful and not let your fabric shift. Using a walking foot is very helpful.
When finished, take out basting stitch.
Press seam flat to meld stitches, and then press seam allowance towards shirt.
Trim seam allowance on shirt side to grade seam allowance.
Turn shirt right side up and press seam again.
Then turn shirt front wrong side up, with the band flipped to the right side. You will be pressing on the edge, with just 1/16" of the band showing on the wrong side. Press edge.
Check on the right side of the button band to make sure that you are either on a plaid line or parallel to a plaid line. You want this band to be perfectly on grain.
Once this is finished, measure from the pressed edge to your center line and add a pin. Write down that amount.
Then measure that same amount on the other side of the center and place another pin. This second pin marking will become your other fold line.
Open up the button band and press under on the pin mark, keeping your fold even all the way down the band.
With shirt right side up, match up the button band with the shirt horizontal plaid lines. Pin band to shirt.
Hand baste band to shirt front.
Using a walking foot will help prevent the plaid fabric layers from shifting. This is like having a feed dog on top of the fabric.
Make sure that the arm of the walking foot is over the needle clamp screw.
When topstitching the button band, always stitch in the same direction to prevent the fabric from shifting.
After topstitching is finished, remove the basting stitches.
On the non-band side of the shirt (the button side), turn your shirt wrong side up. Press on the fold line, keeping the plaid line straight.
Then open the fold and press under half the amount.
Then fold both layers and press once again, keeping the horizontal plaid lines straight.
To determine where to topstitch, check where the fold ends on the wrong side of the shirt. Come in from there 1/8" - 3/16" and place a pin as a marker. This is where you will topstitch.
Topstitch from the top to the bottom, staying parallel to a plaid line. One stitching is enough.
Here is the completed topstitching.
PATCH POCKETS
Place shirt front right side up. Notice where the tailor tack markings are for the pocket placement.
Identify the same plaid lines on plaid fabric and cut out pocket sides.
Place pocket pattern on cut strip, matching up the horizontal plaid lines that will match up on the shirt front plaid lines.
Finish cutting out pocket.
With pockets wrong side up, press top to wrong side on fold line.
Cut out interfacing strips 3/4" wide and length of pocket width. Open up pocket fold and press on interfacing on fold line.
Press under top raw edge 1/4".
Use turning tool to push out pocket corners.
Turn pocket right side up and check to make sure vertical plaid lines are straight on the pocket sides.
Once pockets are pressed and prepared, place them on top of each other to make sure that they are both the same size.
Stitch across bottom of pocket hem. You may leave thread tails on end of stitches to pull threads to the pocket back and tie knots.
Place shirt front right side up. Place pocket on shirt front, lining up to the tailor tacks and matching up vertical and horizontal plaid lines.
YOKE
Place shirt back right side up and check the grainline at the top edge. If the two corners do not match up, fold the shirt in half.
After folding the shirt in half, trim off any extra so that the grainline is the same for both halves.
For clarification, I will call the yoke that faces the world the "upper yoke" and the yoke that faces the body the "yoke lining." With shirt back right side up, place upper yoke right side up just above the shirt to make sure the vertical lines match up.
Place upper yoke on top of shirt back, with right sides together, matching top raw edges. Pin together, making sure that the vertical lines match up.
Using the walking foot, stitch 1/4" seam, stitching on upper yoke side and keeping stitching parallel with plaid lines.
Cut second yoke piece for the lining. These plaid lines do not necessarily need to match, but be sure that the plaid is on grain. With shirt back wrong side up, pin yoke lining piece right side down on top of back and pin raw edges together.
Flip shirt around so that the upper yoke is on top. Stitch yoke lining to shirt, following upper yoke stitching line.
Press yoke stitching flat, melding stitches into fabric.
With shirt back wrong side up, press seam allowance towards yoke.
With shirt back right side up, press yoke seam again, making sure there are no fabric tucks.
With shirt back wrong side up press second yoke seam to do the same.
Place shirt back right side up. Then place shirt fronts right side down on top of upper yoke, matching shoulders at raw edges.
Pin shoulders, making sure that vertical lines are matching where the stitching line is. Since this seam will be at an angle, the plaid lines may not match at the cutting edge.
Sew shoulders seams. Because these seams are slanted, stitch directionally from the neck to the armscye to prevent stretching.
With shirt right side up, press shoulder seam towards yoke.
Place shirt right side up.
Fold up shirt back up into a small pile on top of the upper yoke piece.
Also fold up one shirt front .
Wrap yoke lining around folded shirt, matching up yoke shoulders.
Pin yoke shoulders. The vertical plaid lines may or may not match, depending on how you cut the yoke lining. The yoke lining will not be seen on the right side of the shirt.
With upper yoke seam towards you, stitch on same stitching, so that yoke lining is stitched at the shoulder.
Repeat this same process for the other yoke lining shoulder seam.
Place shirt right side up and press yoke shoulder seam again. All raw edges in the yoke are now enclosed.
Topstitch yoke shoulder seams and back yoke seam.
STAYSTITCH NECKLINE
It is important to staystitch the neckline to prevent the bias grain from stretching out of shape.
Pin yokes together at the neckline.
Staystitch neckline 3/16" from the edge. Start at center back and stitch to center front. Then flip shirt around and stitch other neckline side from center back to center front. Be careful to not let the bias grainline stretch.
COLLAR
You want the center back of the collar and collar stand to match the same dominant plaid line as the shirt and yoke center back. You will cut out the upper collar and upper stand first. Place your fabric right side up. The larger point of the collar point is towards the bottom, so that the collar is placed the same direction as the shirt. Line up the center fold on the center of the dominant plaid line. Pin in place and make sure that the horizontal and vertical lines are perpendicular to each other.
Pin the collar stand right side up, matching the center back on the center dominant vertical line.
Cut out collar and stand to center back. Do not cut on the fold line.
Flip collar pattern to opposite side, folding fabric on the center of the dominant plaid line. Match up vertical and plaid lines. Pin in place.
Do the same for the collar stand and pin in place.
Cut out other half of collar stand and collar.
Cut out a second piece for collar and collar stand.
Fold interfacing in half and cut out one for collar and one for collar stand.
Trim off 1/4" off interfacing on collar stand.
Press interfacing to wrong side of upper collar stand (the one facing away from the body).
Trim 1/4" off interfacing of collar, including the corner.
Before pressing interfacing to collar, check upper collar end points. Make sure that the plaid lines are exactly the same.
Press interfacing to wrong side of upper collar.
Measure and mark pivot corners of collar by measuring in 1/4" from cut edges.
Fold under collar in half and trim off 1/8" on front edges.
Pin upper collar to under collar with right sides together.
Sew collars together with 1/4" seam allowance. When you get to 1/2" from corner point, change stitch length to 1.5. Continue stitching to almost the corner marking. With needle in down position, raise presser foot and turn fabric diagonally. Stitch two tiny stitches diagonally. Then turn fabric again and continue stitching. After 1/2" out from the first corner, return stitch length to normal. Continue stitching to opposite collar corner and repeat process. Watch the following video for great tips from Threads Magazine.
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/36425/video-sew-perfect-collar-points
After stitching collar, trim off excess fabric at corners.
Press seams flat and then press seams open over point pressing tool.
Turn collar right side out and push out corners with point turning tool.
To pull out corners out more gently, thread hand needle with double strand thread. Insert needle into collar corner.
While holding on threads, pull gently to nudge fabric out of corner. Do to both sides to make them both equal shape.
Check both corners of upper collar to make sure that they are the same shape and that the plaid lines match up.
Once again check upper collar points.
Topstitch on upper collar side. If you did double stitching on the button band, do the same to the collar.
Trim off cut edges so that upper and under collar match.
Place upper collar right side up and collar stand with interfacing right side up. Check to make sure that the vertical plaid lines match up.
The following method is taken from the "Shirtmaking" book by David Coffin. It is a great technique to prevent bulk at the front of the collar stand.
For clarification, we will call the interfaced collar stand the OUTSIDE STAND and the collar stand facing the INSIDE STAND.
With shirt right side up, pin outside stand to neckline, matching center back and front markings.
The stand should extend beyond the shirt 1/4" for this pattern.
With shirt side up, start stitching from center back and stitch just to end of shirt front.
Leave thread tails and do not backstitch.
Flip shirt around to still have shirt side up. Stitch from center back to the opposite shirt end.
Pin inside stand to shirt neckline, matching center back and shirt fronts.
At the front of the inside stand, offset the inside stand from the outside stand by 1/8". (This will allow the inside stand to roll towards the neck more smoothly.)
With the outside stand facing up, stitch through all the layers, following your previous stitching, stitching from center back to the front.
End the stitching exactly at the end of the shirt front and leave thread tails.
Flip the shirt around and stitch again from center back to the front of the shirt.
To finish stitching around the corner of the collar stand, first fold back the front of the shirt towards the collar stand and pin it out of the way.
Put the outside collar stand together with the inside stand at the fronts and mark the 1/4" stitching line from the shirt fronts to the center front mark. Pin in place.
With the inside stand facing up, stitch from the center front mark to the bottom corner of the stand.
TIP: To stitch easily to the corner, use a stylus or the seam ripper to help guide the fabric to the corner.
With the needle down, raise the presser foot and pivot the fabric. Then lower the presser foot and continue stitching for another 1" along the neck edge.
Now repeat the same steps for the opposite collar stand end.
Before trimming and turning the corners to the right side, check your two fronts and make sure that the shapes are the same.
Then trim the fabric to 1/8" from edge. Once you have trimmed this much, be VERY careful as you turn the collar stand right side out so that your fabric doesn't pull out. If your fabric is loosely woven, it is best to not trim the seam allowance.
Press collar stands towards the top.
Turn shirt right side up and mark the center back.
Then turn the shirt wrong side up so that the inside stand is towards you.
Mark the center back of the collar.
Pin upper collar to the inside stand, matching center backs and center fronts.
Stitch from center back to center front, 1/4" seam allowance. Keep the outside stand out of the way.
Stitch all the way to the center front mark and then backstitch.
Then flip the shirt around and repeat step, stitching from center back to the opposite center front, and backstitch.
Grade seam allowances.
Fold under raw edges of outside stand to match seam line. Pin in place. It is best to do this over a pressing ham. Then slipstitch opening, only stitching through the seam allowance, not up into the collar.
SLEEVES
Lay fabric right side up. Place sleeve pattern right side up.
Decide what vertical dominant line you want for the center of the sleeve.
The horizontal plaid line to match up on the sleeve side seam will be the same as the shirt front and back side seams. Place shirt front side on top of sleeve pattern. Match up horizontal plaid lines.
Center pattern vertically and horizontally and pin in place.
Check the horizontal plaid lines on both sides of the sleeve pattern.
After sleeve is cut out, flip sleeve pattern right side down. Match up the horizontal and vertical plaid lines. Pin in place.
Cut out other shirt sleeve. Snip markings on sleeve capline and bottom of sleeve.
Put a piece of tape on the right side of both sleeves and label them "right sleeve" and "left sleeve."
TAILORED SLEEVE PLACKET
You want the sleeve placket to match horizontally. If you want an extra challenge, also match the vertical plaid lines. Here is how to do it. DO THE RIGHT SLEEVE FIRST. Place the placket pattern on top of the pattern and sleeve. Center the stitching lines over the sleeve placket mark.
Snip to mark the center line and the two stitching lines.
With placket pattern wrong side up, fold upper placket in twice to create the upper placket. With right sleeve RIGHT side up, place folded placket pattern on top of sleeve, centering the pattern over the center cut line.
With pins, mark the outer edges of the upper placket. See where they line up on the vertical plaid lines.
Place the same markings on extra plaid fabric, RIGHT side up.
Place placket pattern RIGHT side up, matching vertical and horizontal plaid lines with shirt sleeve.
Pin pattern in place.
Double check that the point of the upper placket is on the correct vertical plaid line.
Cut out right sleeve placket and transfer markings to WRONG side of placket.
Press in sides 1/4" and press. Then press top triangle down, making sure that it is centered.
With right sleeve WRONG side up, place placket RIGHT side down, matching the placket fold line with the sleeve placket cutting line. Also match up horizontal lines.
Pin placket in place and sew on stitching line with a 1.5 stitch length.
Here is the completed stitching.
Cut between the stitching lines and cut out diagonally to corners.
Press seam allowance towards under placket.
Press other seam allowance towards upper placket.
Open up placket to sleeve right side and press top seam flat.
Turn under placket slightly over stitching line, matching horizontal plaid lines.
Pin under placket in place.
Edgestitch under placket from top to bottom.
Now fold upper placket over and press. Match horizontal and vertical plaid lines and pin in place.
Edgestitch upper placket and stitch into triangle area. Choose method of topstitching: "X" or "rectangle."
This is the "rectangle" method.
LEFT SLEEVE PLACKET
Place left sleeve RIGHT side up. Place placket pattern WRONG side up on top of sleeve.
With placket pattern wrong side up, fold upper placket in twice to create the upper placket. With left sleeve RIGHT side up, place folded placket pattern on top of sleeve, centering the pattern over the center cut line.
With pins, mark the outer edges of the upper placket. See where they line up on the vertical plaid lines.
Cut out left sleeve placket and transfer markings to WRONG side of placket.
Press in sides 1/4" and press. Then press top triangle down, making sure that it is centered.
With right sleeve WRONG side up, place placket RIGHT side down, matching the placket fold line with the sleeve placket cutting line. Also match up horizontal lines.
Pin placket in place.
Here is the completed stitching.
Clip through center of stitching, and cut diagonally into each corner.
Press seam allowance towards upper placket.
Open up placket to sleeve right side and press top seam flat.
Turn under placket slightly over stitching line, matching horizontal plaid lines.
Edgestitch under placket.
Place upper placket on top forming point at top.
Match up horizontal plaid lines. If cut appropriately, also match vertical plaid lines.
Pin placket into place, making sure that placket fold covers stitching.
Stitch across and then diagonally.
Without backstitching, leave thread tails.
Pull threads to the wrong side and tie a knot.
Here is the completed left sleeve tailored placket.
Pin sleeve pleats in place, with pleats going the same direction as the placket.
Baste sleeve plackets slightly less than 1/4" from edge.
SEWING COLLAR TO NECKLINE
If necessary, trim down button band at neckline so that it matches original pattern.
With pin, identify center back of shirt yoke and center back of under collar stand.
Pin WRONG side of shirt to RIGHT side of under collar stand (collar stand without interfacing). Begin pinning by matching center back, notches, and fronts. The front ends of the collar stands should match the front edge of the button band.
Then continue adding many more pins throughout the whole collar stand.
If the shirt neckline has more fabric ease, it may be necessary to pull on some of the staystitching stitches to pull in the extra ease. While doing this, keep the fabric smooth to prevent large puckers.
To sew collar stand to shirt, place shirt side next to the feed dog, with the collar stand on top. This will help ease in any excess fabric. Stitch slowing, removing pins as you sew.
Trim seam allowance on under stand only. Do not trim on neckline side.
On shirt neckline, clip areas of concave curves.
With shirt wrong side up, place collar stand over pressing ham and press seam allowance towards collar stand.
With shirt right side up, place collar over pressing ham. Roll under collar stand raw edges 1/4" and place fold just over the stitching line. Pin in place, matching the vertical plaid lines at center back.
Pin all of collar stand to shirt neckline.
Topstitch through all layers of collar stand, at the bottom fold and the top of collar stand. Begin stitching at the center back of the top of the collar stand, then stitch all the way around. Secure thread tails by pulling them to the wrong side.
STITCHING SLEEVES TO SHIRT
Find center of sleeve and mark with pin. Pin to armscye.
Continue pinning sleeve to armscye.
There are two ways to finish the armscye:
- mock flat fell seam
- reverse flat fell seam
MOCK FLAT FELL SEAM
Serge raw edges of armscye.
Press seam allowance towards shirt.
Also press on right side to prevent fabric tucks.
Topstitch edge of armscye seam, single stitch, or
Double topstitch, using the regular foot or the walking foot.
REVERSE FLAT FELL SEAM
Trim ONLY shirt seam allowance.
Press folded seam allowance towards shirt.
Pin folded seam allowance on right side of shirt.
the walking foot.
It will have a single stitch of the right side of the shirt.
On the wrong side of the shirt, it will have a double row of stitching, like this.
CUFFS--CUTTING OUT
Cuffs will match each other horizontally. Cut out the cuffs before sewing the side seams so that you can match the vertical plaids easier. To make the plaids match vertically, see below. The cuffs will need to be cut out individually to match each sleeve. In the picture below, the right sleeve is shown RIGHT side up, from the upper placket to the cut edge. Add the cuff pattern below, RIGHT side up, with the buttonhole side under the upper placket. The pattern extends 1/4" beyond the placket for the 1/4" seam allowance. Pin the sleeve to the cuff pattern.
Now add some plaid fabric RIGHT side up just above the shirt sleeve. Have the vertical plaid lines of the fabric match the sleeve plaid lines.
Now add some plaid fabric RIGHT side up just above the shirt sleeve. Have the vertical plaid lines of the fabric match the sleeve plaid lines. Use pins to mark the plaid lines on the fabric. Label the fabric "left sleeve cuff."
Because we have sewn a tailored placket onto our sleeves instead of the continuous placket that the pattern called for, we have increased the circumference of the sleeve cuff opening. The cuff pattern may not fit the sleeve if we do not add extra width to the cuff pattern. To determine if you need to do this, measure the bottom edge of your sleeve. Do this from upper cuff to the cut edge and from the under placket to the cut edge. Add these two numbers together. Then subtract 1/2". This will be the amount you need for your unfinished cuff, which will include 1/4" seam allowances.
If you do not want to do the above calculations, then just add 1" to the non buttonhole side of the pattern.
Lay the cuff pattern RIGHT side up on the RIGHT side of the plaid fabric where you made your markings for the right sleeve cuff. Decide what plaid pattern you would like for the upper cuff and place your pattern accordingly.
Pin in place and cut right sleeve cuff, adding an extra inch to the button side, or the extra amount that you calculated you would need.
Now place the right sleeve cuff WRONG side up over the RIGHT side of the plaid fabric where you marked your placement for the left sleeve cuff. Match up the horizontal plaid lines only. Depending on your fabric, your vertical plaid lines may not match.
Cut out the left sleeve cuff. Make sure you label both sleeve cuffs appropriately so they will not get mixed up. Also indicate which is the upper cuff.
Note: the cuffs will continue after the side seams.
SIDE SEAMS--QUICK FLAT FELL SEAMS
(NOTE: If you want to do this method and your seam allowances are 5/8", first trim off 1/4" on the side edges , including the sleeves.) If you are using the Kwik Sew pattern, the seam allowance will be 3/8". Only trim off loose threads along the raw edges so make it more clean.
Place the shirt front to the shirt back, WRONG sides together, with the shirt back towards you. Offset the raw edges 1/4" so that the shirt front extends out. Make sure that your horizontal plaid lines match up.
Press under the shirt front raw edges 1/4" over the shirt back raw edges and pin in place.
Roll the edges over again just to check that your horizontal plaid lines will still match up.
Stitch 1/4" from the fold, using either the walking foot, OR
the patchwork foot, which has the 1/4" guidebar.
Once finished stitching, open up shirt and press fold towards the shirt back.
Pin side seams with WRONG sides together, matching up horizontal plaid lines while pinning.
Pin the side seam as well as the sleeve seam, matching the armscye seam.
Using walking foot, sew side seams 1/2" from edge. Stitch on the front shirt side, not the back shirt side, so that both rows of topstitching for the flat fell seam will be needle stitches, not bobbin stitches.
Press seam towards the back, using a seam roll tool.
Trim the back seam allowance 1/4". Do not trim the front seam allowance.
With shirt back side up, press under front seam allowance 1/4". Be careful to keep the folded width even.
Insert a seam roll tool up into the shirt and sleeve to pin down the pressed front seam allowance to prepare for the flat fell seam.
Turn the sleeves inside out. Edgestitch along the folded edge, keeping this stitching parallel with the first row of stitching. When you stitch the sleeve, you will be inside a tube, so arrange the fabric so that it will be flat and smooth in front of the presser foot. Take your time to be accurate. If this is too difficult, begin stitching from the bottom of the sleeve and stitch as far up into the sleeve as you can. Without backstitching, leave thread tails to be able to pull them to the wrong side. Then continue edgestitching from where you left off on the other end of the sleeve and continue to the shirt hem area.
Here is the completed flat fell seam. Very strong seam and clean on the inside of the shirt.
CUFFS--SEWING
For these cuffs, I made them a few inches wider to make sure that my plaid lines would match up vertically. (To see how to cut out cuffs, look above before the flat fell side seams.)
Add interfacing to the upper half of the sleeve cuff. My cuff pattern is on the fold. Your cuff may be two pieces.
With sleeve right side out, pin right side of cuff to sleeve raw edges. I am also matching vertical plaid lines from sleeve seam to sleeve tucks.
Stitch cuff to sleeve with 1/4" seam allowance.
After stitching, check your plaids to make sure they match.
Place seam roll inside sleeve and press seam allowance towards cuff.
Fold edge of sleeve diagonally and pin out of the way. Then fold cuff in half, right sides together, matching up vertical plaid lines.
Mark stitching line on side of cuff, where the sleeve ends.
Stitch along side of cuff and pivot to stitch over cuff seam for 1". Do the same for the other cuff edge.
Grade seam allowance.
Trim cuff sides and corners.
Turn cuffs right sides out and pull out corners.
Slipstitch cuff opening to sleeve.
Topstitch around all four sides of cuffs.
ALTERNATIVE WAY OF ATTACHING CUFFS:
Iron on the interfacing to the wrong side of the upper cuffs. I have put a pin to indicate the upper cuff.
Fold cuffs in half, right side out, and press top fold EXACTLY on a plaid line, or parallel to a plaid line.
Open up the cuffs and turn under the raw edge of the upper cuffs 1/4". Once again, fold EXACTLY on a plaid line, or parallel to a plaid line.
Pin UNDER cuff to the WRONG side of the sleeve. Match vertical lines if that is the way you cut out your cuffs. There must be at least 1/4" of cuff extending beyond the sides of the sleeve plackets.
Sew the cuff to the sleeve.
Press seam towards cuff.
Fold cuff in half with RIGHT sides together. Pin the ends with seam allowances flat, not folded. You may need to mark stitching line with a pencil if you can't see through the interfacing.
Stitch cuff ends.
Trim off excess seam allowance and clip corner.
Pin folded cuff edge to shirt, matching vertical plaid lines, and overlapping barely over seam stitching.
The vertical plaid lines will only match from edge of sleeve pleat to sleeve seam.
Edgestitch cuffs around all four sides, pivoting at the corners. Start at the center of the upper edge of the cuff and continue around all four sides. (This is because it is difficult to start at the corner.) Do not backstitch but leave long thread tails.
Pull thread tails to the under cuff.
Tie a knot and pull threads in between the fabric layers with a hand needle.
Here is the finished cuff with double topstitching.
HEM
Put the shirt fronts together RIGHT sides up and match up the horizontal lines.
Pay attention to the bottom edge. You want horizontal lines to match.
If necessary, trim the bottom raw edges so that both sides will match up with the hem.
Also check the shirt back. The horizontal plaids at center back should be true so trim if necessary.
With shirt WRONG side up, press under hem 1/2" and press.
Concave and convex curves are a little challenging to get even and smooth. Take your time as you measure, pin and fold.
Open up the pressed hem and fold under half the amount, 1/4", and then fold again and pin. The double fold hem will be 1/4".
Check the center fronts again to make sure the horizontal lines match at the hem fold.
You may topstitch the hem on the wrong or right side of the shirt. If stitching on the right side of the shirt, transfer your pins to the shirt right side. Backstitch at the beginning and stitch all around the hem. Here is a trick to backstitch by going forward. Flip the shirt around so that it is behind the presser foot. Begin stitching forward 1/2" from the edge of the buttonhole band. When you get close to the edge, stop with the needle down and raise the presser foot. Pivot the fabric around and continue to stitch forward around the shirt hem. Do the same when you reach the opposite end. This helps prevent messy backstitching on a very visible area. You may pull your thread tails to the wrong side when finished stitching.
Take your time as you stitch around the curves, taking the pins out as you go.
Press hem when finished.
BUTTONHOLES
Buttons should be 3/8", 5/16", or 1/2" in size but no bigger. You will need 8-12 buttons.
Mark buttonhole on collar stand at placement marked. The buttonhole on the collar stand and the cuffs will be horizontal. The buttonholes on the buttonhole band will be vertical. Mark 6 - 8 vertical buttonholes on the buttonhole band where you want the top of the buttonhole to be. The buttonholes should be centered on the band. The first buttonhole should be 3" from buttonhole on collar stand and the remaining buttonholes should be 3 1/2" apart. You may use the flex tool to evenly space your buttonholes.
On the Bernina 350 model we will use the Bernina 3A buttonhole presser foot. Also thread the bobbin thread through the finger of the bobbin case. This will create a tight bobbin tension and make a smoother satin stitch on the buttonhole needle side.
To determine the length of the buttonholes, add the size (diameter) of the button and the depth of the buttonhole. This will be the length of your buttonholes. On the Bernina 3A foot, move the red arrow to the length of the desired buttonhole.
Using scrap fabric with the same thickness as the buttonhole band, sew some test buttonholes. Cut the buttonholes and slide the button through it. You don't want the buttonhole too loose, but you also don't want it too tight or else it will be stressed when the button goes through it.
Sew all the buttonholes on the shirt.
Mark the buttonhole placement for the two cuffs. Center the horizontal buttonhole from the top to the button of the cuff.
Here is the finished cuff buttonhole. If you sewed the longer men's tailored placket, you may want to add a buttonhole in the placket.
There are two ways you can cut open the buttonholes. If you want to use the seam ripper, make sure it is sharp. Put two pins just inside the buttonhole bartacks to prevent the seam ripper from cutting through the bar tacks.
OR, you could use the buttonhole knife. Use it over a block of wood,
Once the buttonholes are stitched, place the buttonhole band over the button side, lining up the horizontal plaid lines. Pin the layers together to prevent them from slipping. Place a pin through the center of each buttonhole to mark the button placement.
On the button side of the shirt, place the pins on the center front line.
Line up the tailored placket so that it is straight on the vertical plaid lines. On the cuff buttonhole, place a pin at the end of the buttonhole to mark the button placement.
BUTTONS
Sew on buttons with a thread shank. Make sure that the buttons are sewn on the center front line of the button side.
Mark buttonholes on front part of cuffs and sleeve plackets at placements marked. Make buttonholes. Sew on buttons to match buttonholes. On buttons to match sleeve plackets, reinforce sleeves under the buttons by placing small pieces of interfacing or self fabric on wrong side under placement of buttons. Sew buttons through all layers and trim the reinforcing fabric.
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