How to Add Ruching Straps to Strapless Gown

Before

After

Many of my clients wish to make a strapless dress modest for a prom night or a pageant and will ask me to add straps to the dress.  Usually the client will have something in mind for what they want.  I will usually study the dress and give some suggestions for possible alterations.  Try to keep the design and integrity of the dress.


Sometimes it is difficult to find matching fabric.  The client may try to purchase additional fabric yardage from the shop where they purchased the dress.  In this instance, the dress needed to be cut off to knee length for a pageant, so there was plenty of fabric for the straps.

Have the client try the dress on and then pin muslin fabric strips to the dress on both shoulders.  Pin where it is a good fit and make pencil markings on the muslin strips.  This will become your pattern when you cut out the fashion fabric.

"F" stands for front.

"B" stands for back.

Unpick the top of the dress where the straps will be inserted.

Make a pattern from your muslin strap.  Add seam allowances.

Cut out the fashion fabric.  I also do an underlining and a lining fabric.  This will make three layers total for extra structure and stability.

Baste the lining to the underlining.

Because the waistband has ruching, I decided to add ruching to the strap.  Therefore, I added double width for the straps.  Sew a gathering stitch (longer stitch length) at the top and bottom of the straps and pull to gather up the fullness.

Pin right side of rusching fabric to lining fabric and pin.  Sew the seam that will be close to the neck.

Trim the seam allowance and press to the lining side.  Understitch on the right side of the lining strap.

Pin other seam and sew from top to bottom.

Now turn strap right side out.  Pull top and bottom to align the ruching and pin to lining fabric.

Pin straps to a pressing board to keep tight.  Pin across the middle of the straps and handstitch through the layers to keep the ruching in place.

Place a pressing cloth on top to protect the fabric and gently steam press the ruching to set the pleats.

Machine baste across the top and bottom of the straps.

Mark the angle where the seam line will be stitched and trim off the excess.

 

 

Finish opening up the seams where the straps will be inserted.

 

 

  Pin the straps to the right side of the fashion fabric.

Sew straps to the top of dress.

Trim seam allowances.  Then tuck them inside and pin the lining to the straps.  Handstitch the openings closed.

Here are pictures of the finished dress.  The ruching at the shoulders blends right in with the ruching at the waistline.

Because the dress and lining were shortened, they were re-hemmed with the narrow serger stitch.

 

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