Jacket Back Vent with Lining (A Sample)

 

Here are the sample pieces for the jacket back vent with lining.  Cut out 2 of the back jacket vent.  Cut 1 each of the back jacket vent lining pieces, one for left and one for right.  Notice that one extends out at the vent and one cuts away at the vent.  This will accommodate the overlap and the underlap of the vent design.

Before removing the pattern pieces, transfer the dot markings for all pieces on the wrong side of the fabric.

Place the two matching jacket pieces wrong side up.  Press up the bottom hem 1".

Place the two lining pieces wrong side up.  Press up the hem 3/4".  The lining patterns have been slightly shortened.

Stay stitch all the corners where the dots are.  This will reinforce the corners when clipping.

With the lining pieces right sides together, pin the CB together, matching up the top dot.  Clip the inside corner to the dot to open up the corner.  Then continue pinning the two fabrics together and match the second dots.

Place the back jacket pieces right sides together.  Pin the CB and the top of the vent, matching the dots.

Stitch the CB, pivoting at the first dot.  Then,

Then stitch across the top of the vent and end at the second dot and backstitch.

On the lining, sew from the lower dot to the first dot, then pivot and stitch to the top of CB.

Press open the CB seam of both backs.

Press the lining on the right side so that it lays flat.

On the wrong side of the jacket sample, measure the width of the vent.  It is 2".

With wrong side up, flip over the vent 2" and press.

Fold up the bottom hem and then fold in the vent again.  See where the inside corners meet.  Mark with pins or pencil.  This will help create the asymmetrical mitered corner.

Open up the vent.  Put a pin or dot where the inside folds meet.  This is the corner.  Put a ruler down, matching the two outside pin markers and the inside corner.  The three should all meet.  Draw a line.  This will become the stitching line.

Fold this line in half, with the line matching on both sides.  Pin in place.  You may want to turn the mitered corner right side out to check that the angle is correct before sewing.

Stitch on the line to create the mitered corner.

Turn right side out and use point turning tool to push into the corner.

On the lining vent, clip the inside corner to staystitching.

Place outside vent wrong side up.  Place lining vent wrong side down.

Work on the overlap vent first.  Matching lower dots, pin right side of lining to right side of mitered corner vent.  Pin in place, stopping at the fold of the lining hem.   This is where the stitching will stop.

Once that is stitched, you are ready to stitch the hem portion.  This can get a little tricky because you have to twist the fabric.

Pin right sides together, matching the hem raw edges.  This will be a 1/4" seam allowance.  Stitch as close to the corner as you can.  It is okay if you leave a small hole.

Turn it right side out and push out the corner.  Now the hard corner is finished.  The underlap side of the vent is much easier.

On the underlap side, put right side of lining hem to right side of underlap hem.  Pin together at raw edges.

Stitch 1/4" seam allowance.

Fold the hem allowance up, right sides together, on pressed line.  The lining fabric will form a natural tuck.  This is called the jump hem.

Here is a closeup of the lining  hem tuck.  Pin in place.  Stitch this seam from hem fold to the lower dot.

Turn right side out and press seam.

On the wrong side of the outside fabric, clip the inside corner to the staystitching.  This will open up the CB seam flat.  Then flip the lining portion up.

Press seams flat.

Pat yourself on the back for finishing a complicated technique.

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