Monday, March 7, 2016

Shortening Tailored Jacket


This tailored jacket was given to me.  Even though I loved it, it was way too long and I wanted to cut it off.  I tried it on and marked where I would like the new hem to be.



If you choose to keep the original curve of the bottom hem edge at center front, trace the corner edge onto a piece of paper to make a template. 


Take a picture of what the finished jacket looks like on the inside so that you can replicate that.


Unpick the bottom hem from the lining to separate them.  Get the lining fabric out of the way and then fold the outer jacket fabric wrong sides together at center back.  Pin at the bottom hem to match edges up.  Cut off the extra length, minus the hem allowance.


Now do the same thing to the jacket lining.



Unpick one sleeve lining seam for 7" - 9" for opening.


Now turn jacket inside out.  Match the center front, with right sides together.  Pin edges together.  If you are going to replicate the bottom edge for center front, trace the template now.  I chose to not curve my bottom hem edge at center front.


If you want to add more support to the fashion fabric hem edge, add a 2" wide strip of fusible interfacing to the wrong side of hem area.
Pin right side of fashion fabric to right side of lining fabric, matching up seams. 


Stitch all the way across the bottom.  (The opening for turning jacket right side out will be in the sleeve lining.)


Trim and grade seam allowance at the front facing area to eliminate bulk.  Remember "Widest to the World."  The seam allowance facing the "World" will be the wider seam allowance.


Turn jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve lining.  Press bottom of jacket hem and corners at center front.



Tack hem at seam allowances.  First pin through the seam lines.  Then put your arm into the sleeve lining opening and pull hem area out through the opening.


It is difficult to show in a picture what to do next.  Sew the seam allowance of the lining to the seam allowance of the jacket fabric.  This will tack the two layers of the jacket so that the hem of the jacket will stay "tacked" and not "collapse."


Once hem area is tacked at each seam allowance, pin the sleeve lining seam back together again.


Topstitch the sleeve lining opening closed, stitching close to the edge.